Food prØn: Margherita pizza edition

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Margherita pizza was allegedly invented to honor an Italian queen and celebrate Italy: Its colors – red tomatoes, white cheese and green basil – represent the colors of the Italian flag. I don’t know whether or not that’s true.
But this is true: The way you put together a Margherita pizza holds lessons about life, namely, that moderation in all things is the key to a good outcome. In pizza making (and perhaps in life) the point is to use top quality ingredients and to not use too much of any one thing because an excess of a good ingredient can screw it all up. 

So to make a Margherita pizza, you make the crust of your choice (or, if you have a reliable purveyor of pizza crusts, purchase one) and roll it or toss it to fit on a pizza stone or lightly oiled pan. Then put a thin coat of good olive oil on the crust and shred some good quality mozzarella cheese on it. (I recommend the pricey brined kind.) Not too much!

Then take a few good tomatoes and boil them till the skins loosen. Remove the skins and seeds and dice them into a bowl. Add minced garlic, kosher salt, fresh ground pepper and olive oil to taste. Spread that over the cheese, and drizzle with a little more olive oil. Bake in a 500 degree oven until the crust is nice and brown.

Immediately after you remove it from the oven, julienne a handful of basil leaves and throw that on top of the hot pie. Then grate a little Parmigiano-Reggiano on it and serve to a grateful public.

As you can see from the photo above, I haven’t quite got the hang of the moderation thing. I used way too much cheese – probably 50% too much. But it was still really good.

Posted by Betty Cracker on 05/03/09 at 09:57 AM • Permalink

Categories: FoodRecipes

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I was going to say that it didn’t look like a whole lot of moderation went into that pizza.  Maybe Margherita moved to Chicago?  I haven’t made Margherita pizza before, but what I’ve had in restauraunts has always been thin-crusted with few toppings, and with the tomatoes sliced rather than cubed.  The variant with goat cheese instead of mozzarella is also quite tasty.

When it’s nice outside we cook ours on the charcoal grill which has a cast iron cooking grid.  Roll out the dough and cook it on foil directly on the grid for about five minutes until the bottom is browned.  Take off the grill, flip it over, add the toppings and cook another five minutes or so.  Moderation is definitely important because if you add too many ingredients the bottom will burn before they’re cooked through.  I like to put whole basil leaves on with the other ingredients because they get a little crispy.  Add later if you don’t like that.  And the whole thing has a wonderful slight smokiness to it in addition to great crust texture.

And since my order of tomato, pepper and eggplant seedlings came in the mail Friday I am now TOTALLY psyched to make this with some heirloom tomatoes late this summer!

Sounds great, Betty. I love making pizza, and this will be my next adventure. Thanks.

Good pizza-making advice –– especially the part about moderation, using smaller amounts of better-quality ingredients.

Margherita is one of my favorites. I’ve never had a problem with tomato skins or seeds, so I skip the boiling and seeding part. I do salt the tomatoes beforehand and let them drain on paper towels. This eliminates potential excess-moisture issues. If you’re using fresh mozzarella it’s a good idea to drain that a bit, too.

Mar, where do you get your seedlings?

Gimme, this year I ordered from Cross Country Nurseries (website is ChilePlants.com)  I have never ordered from them before but a friend highly recommended it.  I’m really impressed so far - the plants are really nice and healthy and they have a HUGE selection of tomatoes, peppers and eggplant (that’s about all they carry).  Lots of heirloom varieties that you won’t see anyplace else.  I put up some pics from their website here a week or so ago.

My in-house New Yorker had an awful experience when she first ordered a pizza in a Glasgow fish and chip shop.

The server took a dubious-looking disk out of the freezer cabinet, dropped it in the deep-fat frier, waited a few minutes, grabbed some paper, fished out the now sizzling atrocity, folded it in half, and handed it to her with the Glasgow equivalent of “Bon appetit!

Traumatized, she went outside, wrung the fat out of it into the gutter, took a bite, then looked for the nearest trashcan.

I should add that it’s possible to get decent pizza in Scotland - lots of long-time Italian immigrants run restaurants and cafes - but steer clear of the chippies if you want a crispy crust. Oh, and don’t even think of going for the deep-fried Mars bars unless you want an instant embolism.

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